The front label said Award of Excellence. The back label said $250 and a voicemail box. In 2008, writer and researcher Robin Goldstein invented a restaurant from scratch — complete with a website, a Milan phone number, and a reserve wine list built almost entirely from Wine Spectator's own lowest-rated Italian wines — to test how seriously the magazine vetted its restaurant wine award. The fictional Osteria L'Intrepido won anyway. Goldstein went public at a wine economists' conference, the story hit the New York Times, the LA Times, and CBS, and Wine Spectator called it a hoax. But one detail stuck: when the magazine called to deliver the good news, they also asked about buying an ad. This episode tells the full story of the scandal that made the wine world question what its most trusted award badge actually means.
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