Forrest Kelly
The Best 5 Minute Wine Podcast
The Real Price of Wine: 401ks, Living Wages, 35 Sprays a Season Pt. 7
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The Real Price of Wine: 401ks, Living Wages, 35 Sprays a Season Pt. 7

Why does a bottle from Freestone cost what it does? Justin Ennis, Senior Director of Winemaking at Joseph Phelps Freestone Vineyards, gives Forrest Kelly one of the most honest cost breakdowns you'll ever hear — an in-house vineyard crew of 12 to 15 with

Forrest asks the question wine lovers wonder in the store aisle: what's the story behind the price? Justin lays it out plainly. Freestone employs its own in-house vineyard staff of 12 to 15 people — with benefits, 401k match, retirement, vacation, and paid holidays. That's high-touch, high-detail farming, and it's part of every bottle's price. Lower-priced wines often farm vastly differently: farming for quantity, machine harvesting, contracted labor instead of in-house crews.

Location matters too. The Sonoma Coast's proximity to the ocean means protecting the fruit can take dramatically more vineyard passes than warmer inland sites — Justin ballparks 35 sprays versus maybe 10 on the Napa Valley floor. Add barrel programs like 100% French oak, and the true cost of a bottle comes into focus.

Then Forrest asks the emotional question: does it ever get old watching someone taste your wine for the first time? Never, says Justin. Memories are created over the wines his team makes — and humans have been fermenting and gathering around the table since we started walking the planet. A meal, an amazing bottle, and laughs: the communal ritual we should never lose.

And his favorite from the lineup? No hesitation: "Pinot Noir is my amour." His deserted-island wine, through and through — with a deep love of Chardonnay right behind it.

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